Documenting my sewing adventures, and the ins and outs of learning to adjust patterns for a perfect fit.

Lady Sing the Blues McCall's 7121


So I open up my fabric closet this morning, looking for fabric, and came across some fabric I have been hoarding for awhile. Purchased from Hancock Fabrics. Not sure what dress I had in mind when I purchased it but I grabbed McCall's 7121. I had made the pattern when I first started sewing, however the waist had issues, so its still in the closet to be altered. The fabric is  lighweight crotchet style knit. It sewed up easily, of course it does holes in the design. I plan to wear a slip/cami underneath.

No changes to the pattern was made, I did use bias binding on the sleeve, the fabric has these medallions, and I wanted to use that as the hem. So I extended the pattern pieces by 4 inches, and cut out the hem around the medallion give it a scallop finish. I also put the elastic in the waist, did not encase it.
It looked nice without the elastic but looks wonderful with.I'm not sure if I will make anything else for my trip. However I am traveling from Frozen Midwest to warmer weather, I don't plan on wearing my winter coat so I may make a cardigan or something. We shall see.


Well until next time sew on....
McCalls 7121/McCall 7121 Front detail


McCall's 7121 Skirt portion
McCall's 7121

I dream of Italy day and night, Mccalls 7561

Let me start off by saying I made this pattern 3x.
The first one, the dress has been trashed, the second dress is a house dress, and the third dress is the dress that you will see today. This pattern is suppose to be a beginner pattern, and maybe it is and I'm just a little slow but I hated the gathering on this dress.

The waist is to be encased, and I tried that the first time, it was horrible, so I applied the elastic directly to the seam, I saw this option on Maggie Elaine's instagram. It worked of course my sewing machine was acting up at that time, so its not the neatest. And even though, I said I wouldn't make this pattern again, EVER the waist part gave me the blues. Guess what I'm doing or maybe the time I post this I would have done. I'm making it again.

So I did make this dress again, view C and well I will say this isn't the best pattern. It has potential and can be manipulated to your liking but I don't think its a great beginner pattern.
Making the 4th final version issues I ran into was how the front and back pieces met at the inner shoulder seam.


It didn't curve along the body, but outward, I thought that I had made an error when cutting the pattern checked the pieces and no its how the pattern pieces were made.

This pattern being successful is also dependent on the fabric you use. I did use a knit however it some structure to it, so the turning over to hem the neckline didn't look nice. So I undid it and went to the store and got some stretch elastic, I decided at the last minute to change the neckline to a V.



I also added pockets both dresses have pockets.
Last version I added 4 inches to the hem, I think the other version I may have added a inch or forgot I can't recall.
Making the sleeveless version the arm holes are to high, so I cut off about an inch,
Again the pattern has potential but as a beginner pattern, it isn't the greatest to me.

But I have two dresses now, and this pattern now goes to drawer, for  a long long time lol.
 First dress fabric from Amazon/Telio
McCall's 7561/M7561

McCall's 7561/M7561

McCall's 7561/M7561 skirt detail

McCall's 7561/M7561 Pockets Yay

Second dress fabric from Joann's Fabric Store/Nicole Miller

McCall's 7561/M7561
McCall's 7561/M7561 back details



Well until next time..... Sew on....



Lemons any one? Or lemonade if you have the patience McCall's 6558

Happy Thursday

I am officially on vacation, last night I finished this dress. I will say I love this dress, but not sure if it will make this vacation, or if I will leave it for the summer.
The lemon print, is from Gertie lines with joann's very popular a few summers ago, I think I orginally bought it to make that, Dolce jumpsuit. But decided not to. I wrestle with making McCall's 6558 or Vogue 9253, in a mini Version of A. I decided to go with McCall's 6558. I also wasnt sure if I wanted the whole dress the lemon print. So I used this open weave mesh I had got from fabric mart. It was one of those I don't know what it is but I'm ordering it deal. Then when I got it. I'm like what the heck is this mess.

But I used it for the bodice, so the bodice is see through, but the ruffle covers it a lot. However I do like how it broke up the print. The dress is really a statement piece.  And we shall see if it makes it on the trip. I cut the 18, and graded to 22 at the hips. I didst encase the elastic at the waist just added it to the seam line, it works but probably would have drawn the dress in more had I encased it. But since the bodice material is so fine, I didn't want to wrestle with the two different textures to encase it.

The bottom skirt, is suppose to have gather fringe part on the outside, but since I was using the cotton fabir and no serger etc to clean up the edge I sewed the skirt to the inside.

It sorta gives me a feel of that banana lady, but its pretty to me. lol

Well that is it for now. Off to cut out a pattern before the movies.

Until next time sew on.

McCalls 6558/McCall's 6558
McCalls 6558/McCall's 6558



McCall's 6558




Tuesday polka dot love and February sewing plans revised

Hey

So remember all those wonderful plans I had for the month of February, well they have all went out the door. I do not have a black panther outfit. However I'm going to the 11pm showing so I dont feel to bad. But I just did not plan accordingly, although I would like to point out with I was without a machine for a little bit. And had a couple days were I couldn't sew once I had it.

I did not make a Valentine's dress. The fabric I had, I took out and was like uhhh no, I will not make a dress with this. These shall be joggers. So I'm going to where something in my closet. I have two dresses I am narrowing it down to. Valentine's Day isn't anything big to me because it is so close to my birthday. However I do like to say Happy Valentine's Day. And also they day after candy goes on sale and I love some chocolate.

Anyways so, now that my February plans are toss to the side, I am going on vacation next week. So the next few days I will be sewing up items to go for that trip. There is a meme floating around social media, and it caption, how woman pack for vacation, it had several wigs, shoes, and outfits, matched to the day. Well that is not me. If I could get away with making the same dress 5x I would. As long as I like it, its comfortable, I feel amazing in it, I will take it.

I do plan to only take 1 suitcase with me a carry on. I have decided to focus on only a few colors, color coordinated vacation, we shall call it. Colors are blue, yellow, black. I only plan to take a few accessories, maybe 2 pair of shoes but everything will go together and fit nicely in this one suitcase. So today I made outfit 1. I need at least 4,  I do have a dress that fits the color scheme that I could wear, but I want to save it for another occasion we shall see.

I'm on that RTW Fast, I was tempted to break it and just go buy clothes, but I need to save my money and use some of these hundreds of yards of fabric I have.

Today skirt is, New Look 6381 Very easy sew.  The skirt has a lot of ease in it. So I ended up making the 16, it has an encased elastic. I used a no roll elastic, when I tried on the skirt without the elastic it felt great. I did add the elastic anyways, and love the way it looked. I added a slit, inspired by a New York and Company skirt worn by Gabrielle Union.
Fabric is from fabric mart.


New Look 6381


New Look 6381


For the top I knew I wanted a yellow top, it took me over a year to find this fabric, it has the right feel, and weight. Purchased online from the surge fabric shop.
I used Simplicity 8424. I think I wanted to make a Large however there is a error with the pattern pieces, and I didn't feel like trying to estimate where the line should be for the Large on the front piece. So I cut the XL. It's a little to big in the lower portion, I think I should have did the a Large.

Simplicity 8424
I didn't prewash this fabric so I'm going to throw it in the washer machine and hope it shrinks some. I think I rather have this to small and just throw something underneath.
I don't know if I could recommend this pattern. I may toss it, the other pieces for the pattern are not most makes for me.

I did not use the elastic in the neckline but used some knit stabilizing tape. I also added a few inches to the ties, which I could have done without.

I wish this pattern worked better me because I could use a lot of these tops in the summer time, I do have a Gertie wrap topped I wanted to give a try. Maybe that one will work better.

New Look 6381 & Simplicity 8424


 Well that is it for now, back to vacation sewing

Until next time Sew On

Friday Ramblings -Snow Day New Machine New Patterns

Happy Friday!!!

NEW SEWING MACHINE

Well first thing, I did get a new sewing machine. I went with Ks Sews from http://dressmakingdebacles.blogspot.com/ suggestion. I picked up the Singer Quantum Stylist 9985. I have not used it. It did come Monday, there will be a learning curve because its different from my brother's machine. But I have the manual out and hoping to get it threaded in a couple hours. I have things that need to be made. And the clock is ticking.
It is nice getting a machine that someone else has that you trust, that way if you get stuck you can ask for help. I will say shopping for sewing machines can be overwhelming at times. And it seems that a lot of manufacturers cater to the quilter, over the garment maker, when it comes to features on machines.

SERGER ISSUES

My serger is still in the shop no word from the repair shop, so that can't be good. I am over my budget for the year for sewing equipment. Although a new machine wasn't in the budget either so I'm hoping that my serger can be saved. I am an avid rummage sale fanatic so this spring and summer I will keep my eye out for a second serger.


PATTERNS
Simplicity spring patterns are out. Nothing to rush out and get.
Didn't like Mimi G patterns this spring. Although she did make her pattern 8611 in a lace, on Instagram and I thought it was very pretty. But the pattern I don't need for myself. On one of her stories a couple months back she stated she had an awesome fall pattern coming out, so I shall look to see what she release in the fall.



Simplicity Pattern 8609 Misses' Skirts and Knit Tops

I like this pattern, the tops, although I have a tummy so we shall see by summer if I'm willing to wear this. Again nothing I will picking up this month or next month. Just a mental note. Simplicity 8609 #8609



Simplicity Pattern 8604 Misses' and Petites' Jacket

I do like this pattern but I cant wait, or pass all together. Simplicity 8604

Simplicity Pattern 8595 Misses' Knit Dresses

I might pick this up in a later month on the 99 cent sales. Its a basic Maxi dress pattern. I don't think I need it because I have 1 or 5 lol already but its a good pattern I think for someone just starting out to get patterns. Simplicity 8595


                                               INDIE PATTERNS


Helen's Closet released a new pattern this week. I sort of want but I'm not sure. I did want her blackwood cardigan pattern but that's 14.00 and the legging pattern she released is 11.90. So that would be 25.00 for two patterns. Pretty steep for me. I thought about asking for it for a birthday gift. I have a few vintages patterns I want, and I could get like 5 of them for 25.00.

The new pattern is a legging pattern, and I know a couple weeks ago I went on a vent about the never ending independent pattern makers, and the repeated styles. lol
So yes this is a legging pattern, why I'm interested in it is because
It has no side seams. It has a crotched gusset and is high waist. But 12.00 dollars I shall think about, or just get the cardigan.

Avery Leggings
Blackwood Cardiganhttps://helenscloset.ca/product/blackwood-cardigan-pdf-pattern/






WELL UNTIL NEXT TIME SEW ON
Edit- I just found another legging pattern that doesn't have side seams. So maybe its a common option, this one is 7.95
http://ellieandmac.com/womens-urban-legs-shorts-legging-pattern/

Happy February...Sewing machine Blues and my first UFO/UFP of 2018 New Look 6123

TGIF! and Welcome to the greatest month of the Year! My birthday and sewing anniversary month. I had these big February sewing plans and they have dwindle down to just making sure I have clothes for my trip later this month.

I am currently having some technical difficulties of such. My serger is in the shop for about the 3rd time. Its been there two weeks. Last time I brought it home it was cutting per the samples, I was given, and one of the samples I finished cutting. But when I used it to finish my knits. It would not cut. So I took back to the shop thinking maybe user error. But the guy tried to cut the knit, two layers of liverpool but it would get caught. When I call to check on it this week, he said he ordered a washer, and it should be in today. I will wait until next week to follow up. 

Even though a serger isn't a necessity I still want it to finish my seams, and this year I wanted to look into using it for more things. I have attachments that have never been used.
Now, my sewing machine is giving me the blues, it just needs to be replaced. However I haven't been able to decide on a good replacement. 

My current machine is brother simplicity sb3129. I don't think it's a bad machine, however this was my first machine and I made a lot of mistakes with it. Which has resulted in the operation declining quicker than one expected. I have damaged foots, plates, jammed the feed dogs etc. 


I have taken it in to be serviced a few times, but the tension is still messed up, my bobbin still jams, my stitches skip etc, my thread breaks in the machine, I think I knocked something loss in the feeder. AGAIN user error. 


Although having a machine with a zillion stitches is over kill for most. there are still some features I want in my new machine. But I need to find a machine this weekend so we shall see. 

I want a machine that has



  • built in thread cutter
  • at least 7 button holes (my current machine has 10) 
  • max sewing speed at least 850 (would love to go up to 1k without going industrial)
  • speed control
  • lettering style (doesn't have to be an embroidery machine
SO ANY SUGGESTIONS YOU HAVE WOULD BE APPRECIATED?

Now Back to my sewing project New Look 6123 

Probably one of first patterns I purchased when I first started sewing. I cut out the 18. The only real area of concern was the hip measurement. I knew before starting it was possible this project would end up not fitting. I'm a solid 50 in the hips,(goal is back down to 48 one day one day lol) the finished hip measurement was a 45 1/2 I believe. I was using a knit a liverpool, it has stretch but not over stretchy, lol. But I was willing to test it out. 

I attached the bodice to the skirt,  the back is left open for the zipper. I tried it on, you know how one does a hospital gown, lol. And thought this may not fit me. So I basted the back, and stopped a few inches above the kick pleat. Tried it on, and it fits.
However I had severe gaping in the upper back. So I pinched it out 2 inches, tried it on still to big I went back and pinched some more. I think I'm at about 3 1/2 inches tapering to nothing at the mid back. but my machine is tripping so bad, that I just tossed it to the side for later. 


New Look 6123 View B



New Look 6123

 I do love the sleeve




Beside the back neck gaping I think the fit in the back is fine.



I know this pattern is made for other fabric then knit, but I don't think that has to much to do with the gaping. I just need to figure out away to take my measurements for future projects. 
I know like the basic upper bust, bust, under, waist, hips. but I dont know if I ever wrote down upper back, shoulder to shoulder, neck to waist, shoulder to apex etc.
So yea I shall put this aside to finish once I get a new machine, or maybe finish in March lol

So for now I'm on a sewing pause, I will deep clean this weekend and try to locate a machine.


Well until next time sew on..... and please share machine recommendation


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