Documenting my sewing adventures, and the ins and outs of learning to adjust patterns for a perfect fit.

Fit Matters

Happy Autumn/Fall

I'm preparing myself for the cooler weather, and more time inside. I picked up a couple more books on fitting, and will begin to immerse myself in perfecting the perfect fit, or coming very close.

One of the joys of sewing is being able to make garments that show your style. Taking this into consideration, I think learning how to alter patterns is a skill that you must develop to have well fitting garments.

For the last two years, two of the most needed alterations I have needed, and honestly avoided, a full bust adjustment, and bicep adjustment. I normally have to grade out for my hips as but I normally can do that easy, with the multi-size patterns.

I did complete 1 full bust adjustment on a pattern, unfortunately I have not made the dress and not sure if I will. I have successfully completed 4 bicep pattern adjustments. It did take a while to get over the fear of cutting up my pattern but after the second one, I was a okay in cutting it up.

As I continue to learn other pattern adjustments I will post them, this Fall I plan to make my first blazer and pair of pants/trousers/jeans maybe so I'm sure I will learn many other adjusting techniques.

I have quite a few books on adjusting patterns I will be using, as well as I follow Andrea of sew to fit she like's the guru of fitting. Check her out at SewToFit and youtube, instagram and facebook same name.

Below I will include a couple photos of my first go around with the bicep/full arm adjustments.

For this adjustment I followed, Sewaholic tutorial Found HERE

Until next time

Sew on!

Pattern pieces all cut


First thing I did was hinged and taped the bottom and began to spread for the fullness I needed



Measured the distance to make sure I had enough space


hinged the cap pieces


And here is where I got stuck I thought I was doing it wrong because of the overlapping pieces shown in the middle, this step you had to basically close the cap



all taped up after I realized the overlap is suppose to be there


To just double check I folded the sleeve and made sure
the notches matched up which they did
so I felt confident I altered it correctly


folded sleeve






                                                            

2 comments

  1. I use the Fit For Real People adjustment which is basically the same BUT you have to add back to the height to account for the overlap.

    So I trace the original sleeve cap on my tracing paper and then do the adjustment. If you leave it as is, your sleeve will pull at the shoulder because you've lost (1/2"...5/8"??) of height.

    And good job for conquering those fitting woes! Soon it'll be second nature and will take just a few minutes after cutting out a new pattern.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I have that book! I'm a read up more
      But thanks for pointing that I'm a start adding it back to the sleeve cap

      Delete

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