Documenting my sewing adventures, and the ins and outs of learning to adjust patterns for a perfect fit.

Once I was Caterpillar...Now Im a Butterfly Mccall M7406

Happy Hump Day


Can I start off by saying how much I love this fabric!!!! When I saw it on fabric mart website, it was a precut offering 4 yards I had to have it. Even though it was a pretty busy print... I wanted it.
The description of the fabric
Stone Gray/Soft Black/Burgundy/Multi Butterfly Print Cotton/Rayon/Lycra Jersey Knit 60W


 
I knew I wanted a wrap dress, (I love a wrap dress fyi you will see a lot of them from me).
I never had much success with store wrap dress, they tend to hit me all in the wrong spots. Now that I can sew and beginning to alter patterns, I will have a closet full of wrap dresses.
Moving right along, this pattern was made for woven, and stable knits, so I wasn't sure how it would work out for me.
I cut a size 16, and graded to a 20 for the hips. Because well these hips don't lie.





The pattern called for bias tape for the back neck, but since I was not working with a woven, I ended up cutting a piece of bias tape from the main fabric and attempted to make some bias tape. Did I do it right who knows, but it’s neat and clean.


I guess technically I could have used regular bias tape....


 Also this is a real wrap dress, only held together by the ribbon and the ties. The ribbon I used, well I didn't have any so I used some bias tape. I have to take the bias tape out and use something stretchy. Maybe I have enough fabric left over to make the inside ties.


I did drop the dart, yay me first time! I dropped it an inch. 


For the hem, I like my dresses to touch the floor so instead of doing a 1 inch or 5/8 hem, I only did 1/2 inch. So I could keep some of princess feel! Well I feel like a princess.
I made View C, with B sleeves
The back has darts, I wasn't sure how that would work, but they are perfect! I love that.
 
This pattern is considered a beginner pattern, I think it’s good for experience. It did take me longer than I expected probably because of my fabric choice, and have to make the bias tape. Nevertheless


I love this dress.. And will be wearing it next week.


Well that's it for now until next time


Sew on!



McCall M7406

Front View C length

B sleeves




McCall M7406

Front View  Close Up




Mcall M7406

Side View

B sleeves




Butterfly in the Sky

McCall 7406






Mcall M7406

Side  View C length

B sleeves




Mcall M7406

Back View C length

B sleeves





Moved Dart McCall M7406

My moved Dart

cant see it well but its there

 





 

Rastafarian inspired McCall 7348

Hey

Well its Saturday and what better way to spend a Saturday, sewing. I have about 10 projects lined up with fabric matched yay me! So I decided to start with this project. 
McCall's 7348

I have a love hate relationship with high low hems, not sure if I like how they look on me, but I decided I wanted to make this pattern View D, with C arm for the fall weather. This fabric is a little thin, which I'm okay with I will just wear a slip with it! Yessss a slip I still wear slips.

The fabric was purchased from LGD Textiles, they have a facebook group as well as a website now.
Its a rayon spandex blend and it was a pretty easy fabric to work with.

I did add pockets to dress, because dresses with pockets are so much better. I checked out a couple reviews before I cut this fabric out and I decided to add two inches to the front piece, which I am glad I did. 

The pattern calls for a 5/8 hem, I did a 1 inch hem all the way around, mainly because I use double sided hem tape and its 1 inch.

My neckline is not perfect to me, the top part of the neck band does not lay flat, maybe that's not the correct description but its a little funky. 

Before I checked the pattern measurements, I was going back and forth on if I was going to cut the size L and grade for the hips. I often times forget about the ease in a garment, lucky for me I did look at the pattern final measurements, and the Large would work fine, no grading needed!

I have to admit I did not feel like doing a bicep adjustment so I just cut out the XL sleeve and eased the extra in.

One last note, the pattern package says for View D you would need 3 yards, I only had 3 yards and I wanted sleeves, I Was able to get all pieces on 3 yards. Just in case you are wondering yardage needed. I folded the fabric all the way over and squeezed in the sleeves on the selvage side, since the body pieces were cut on the fold.


I love this dress and look forward to wearing it.

Until next time 

Sew on 


McCall M7348
All cut out


McCall M7348
Neckline close up


Added pockets


McCall M7348
View D Front


McCall 7348
View D Side View


McCall M7348
View D Back Low Hem











Lipstick Pink- Burda 6748

Hi!

I picked up a few Burda patterns, a couple months ago when they went on sale. I really like Burda patterns, however their sizing and my body shape I would need to do a lot of alterations so I tend to stay away from them.

However I did pick up Burda 6748,
Image result for burda 6748


I really liked view B. It was funny cutting out the pattern pieces I kept thinking its no way these pieces will go together. This was my first time working with a princess seam garment.

I used a wool ponte knit that I picked up from Fabric Mart Fabrics
It was listed as Lipstick Pink Wool/Lycra Ponte Double Knit, I got it on sale it was regularly priced a little higher then the regular ponte knits. I wanted to know why....

When it came, I thought it was ugly and a waste of money. It wasn't until I start cutting my pattern out and sewing it together,  I slowly began to appreciate the quality of the material. Trying it on for fitting, it was very warm and felt amazing! First impressions were completely wrong......

The pattern itself easy sew, however the zipper did give me the blues! My seam zipper and me were the best friends. I then decided to sew it in by hand, but I didn't have the patience, so back at the sewing machine, and ripping out the stitches because the bobbin thread kept tangling.

I saw my walking foot, and thought WHY NOT!!! and guess what it worked like a charm.....
I could have finished this dress days ago... but hey it was a lesson learned....

I also had to get a two way zipper, something that was new to me! They don't have a lot of options in the store, so my zipper is a parka?jacket zipper... I don't think it looks bad, but also not sure what style of two way zipper the pattern had in mind.

I did have to do a bicep adjustments to the pattern, and I cut out the size 18, I thought about grading to the 20, for the hips considering the stretch in the fabric but decided to just keep it all 18.

I love the dress overall, the stitching around the zipper isn't the best...but due to the thread color not easily seen... I will wear it sometime next month

Well that's all for now! Until next time sew on.....

Burda 6748 

Close up thread and fabric



Burda 6748 front has facing 

Burda 6748


Burda 6748 Back






Fit Matters

Happy Autumn/Fall

I'm preparing myself for the cooler weather, and more time inside. I picked up a couple more books on fitting, and will begin to immerse myself in perfecting the perfect fit, or coming very close.

One of the joys of sewing is being able to make garments that show your style. Taking this into consideration, I think learning how to alter patterns is a skill that you must develop to have well fitting garments.

For the last two years, two of the most needed alterations I have needed, and honestly avoided, a full bust adjustment, and bicep adjustment. I normally have to grade out for my hips as but I normally can do that easy, with the multi-size patterns.

I did complete 1 full bust adjustment on a pattern, unfortunately I have not made the dress and not sure if I will. I have successfully completed 4 bicep pattern adjustments. It did take a while to get over the fear of cutting up my pattern but after the second one, I was a okay in cutting it up.

As I continue to learn other pattern adjustments I will post them, this Fall I plan to make my first blazer and pair of pants/trousers/jeans maybe so I'm sure I will learn many other adjusting techniques.

I have quite a few books on adjusting patterns I will be using, as well as I follow Andrea of sew to fit she like's the guru of fitting. Check her out at SewToFit and youtube, instagram and facebook same name.

Below I will include a couple photos of my first go around with the bicep/full arm adjustments.

For this adjustment I followed, Sewaholic tutorial Found HERE

Until next time

Sew on!

Pattern pieces all cut


First thing I did was hinged and taped the bottom and began to spread for the fullness I needed



Measured the distance to make sure I had enough space


hinged the cap pieces


And here is where I got stuck I thought I was doing it wrong because of the overlapping pieces shown in the middle, this step you had to basically close the cap



all taped up after I realized the overlap is suppose to be there


To just double check I folded the sleeve and made sure
the notches matched up which they did
so I felt confident I altered it correctly


folded sleeve






                                                            

Farewell to Summer Vogue 9192/V9192

Happy Football Sunday

As I prepare to start my fall wardrobe, I had one goal this summer and that was to sew a swimsuit. I put it off for majority of the summer, scared to cut the fabric. But I got over that fear with a few days of summer to spare!

Vogue 9192, I made view B. It wasn't a hard sew persay, the 3/8 seam allowance was a bit new, so some of my elastic is not completely unseen. I love the fabric bought it from facebook in a fabric group. It's lined with some swimsuit lining from Joann's. It did use a lot of elastic, 6 yards.  Now just to plan a vacation, somewhere warm where I can wear it.

I think I did a pretty good job, room for improvement indeed, and of course since I made it I'm a rock it!


Vogue 9192 Front View
View B


Vogue 9192 Inside View
View B


Vogue 9192 Front inside View
View B








Houndstooth Love McCall's M6884 Revisited

Good Evening

Let me start of by saying that I love houndstooth, and you will probably see me in this print a lot. 
I also love wrap dresses, I think every woman should have 1 or 15,000.  Okay maybe not 15,000 but for me it's a staple style. 

I decided to give Mccall M6884, another go, I remember this dress being one of my first patterns, and one that I said I would never sew again. But here I am, and oddly I made the same view this time. Talk about eating your words. 
I'm mentally preparing myself for Fall, so I wanted a dress that could easily transition to cooler weather. So I added the sleeves, from View B, and I also did a full arm/bicep adjustment. Actually I did two in one day, one for a Vogue pattern and this one. I will post about that separately. 

I absolutely love this dress, this fabric is from Fabric Mart. It is listed as a 
Item #Black/Off -White Houndstooth Print Poly/Lycra ITY Knit, it feels like heaven to me. Not that I actually know what heaven feels like.... But I will give out hugs when I wear this dress. 

McCall M6684 Front View




Mccall M6884
Back view


Mccall M6884Front view Neck line








Mccall M6884
Side gathers
View D



Until Next Time Sew on!! 



I want you I miss you ... I need you Butterick B6050



Happy Wednesday

I finished up this project couple of days ago.

It's a pretty simple dress, if no adjustments are need, my back piece my straps were too long so I had to take that a part and readjust and the elastic length for my size, made the dress droop in the back.

I made Size 18 top and graded to 22 at the hips. I think the pattern says 22 is 46 hips. My hips are a 48, so it a fitted on the hips.
But what can I do? The hips don't lie!

I choosed this novelty knit print picked up in one of the facebook fabric groups, It says I want you... I miss you... I need you... I thought it was cute and not too busy for the dress.

Well on to the next project, I have a cart full of fabric over at fabricmart.com. I'm going to wait to after dinner to see if I still want it, but who am I kidding of course I do you can never have too much fabric! Well you can but......

Butterick 6050/B6050 View A Front



Butterick 6050/B6050 View A Back View


Butterick 6050/B6050 View A Twisted Upper Back 

Until Next Time Sew on.....




This Dress is the thing Summer dreams are made out of Mccall M7405



Hi All! Happy Thursday


I'm still on my quest to sew down my stash, I picked up McCall M7405 I believe in the spring, because I really liked view C and View D.
This pattern called for 4 yards oddly enough I have closet full of 3 yard cuts or less. 

So I digged deep and found this fabric I had been hoarding for about a year and a half. Picked it up at Hancocks Fabric(I will miss that store).  It's some sort of knit, got it on a the flat yard table so it doesn't have any information on material content. It is the softness thing ever! But lightweight semi sheer, so I will need a slip under when I wear it.

The pattern itself was an easy sew, and after my last failed project it was nice to get right for once. This pattern is from McCall Learn to Sew line, some of the patterns can be hit or mess. But this one is pretty good. I do wish they would show an example of a slip stitch. I think for someone new to sewing that should be included in the instructions.

I made view D, but used View C slit on the right side. There is nothing wrong with a little leg action!

I oddly enough, last project didnt cut the back on the fold, this project I cut on the fold and it needed to be two pieces, so I just folded in half pinned it, made sure it was lined up no bubbles and cut it on the center fold.  Worked out fine.

Sewing has many mishaps sometimes we recover, others time we don't! But it's always fun to try to create something beautiful to wear.

I will say again I LOVE LOVE LOVE this fabric.


McCall M7405 View D with View C side split front view










Love the Rich colors of this fabric
McCall M7405 View D neckline gathers




Mccall M7405 Side Split, from View C



McCall M7405 View D
Back Neck Slit














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